14 March
Day four
The swell decided for us
We had planned the outer landing for this morning and spent forty minutes arguing with the sea about it before giving up. Instead we took the sheltered channel and found the light station nobody had mentioned to us — three roofless buildings and a brass mechanism still turning in the wind.
“The trip you planned is rarely the trip worth having. Bring a second idea.”
18 March
Day eight
Nine hours to the stone hut
Longest day of the itinerary and the one people write to us about a year later. Two of the group turned back at the saddle, which is a sound decision and not a failure — the boat met them at the lower landing within the hour.
22 March
Day twelve
Far enough
Turned south at 71°04′ with clear water still ahead of us. The group wanted to push on. The forecast said otherwise and the forecast was right by the following afternoon.
“We have never regretted turning around early. Not once in eleven seasons.”